Denim with Lycra Fabric: Sewing Tips & Tutorial

Denim with lycra fabric combines the durability and easy care of classic denim with the comfort and stretch of spandex — making it one of the most wearable fabrics you can sew. Whether you're making jeans, a jacket, or a casual dress, this guide covers everything you need to get great results.

Why Choose Denim with Lycra?

Can there be a more universal fabric than denim? Denim is sturdy, resists soiling, and is easy to care for. It is also easy to sew! Denim blended with lycra adds to the comfort factor of this popular fabric. A denim garment is sure to be a favorite in your casual wardrobe.

Pretreatment

Denim with lycra should be washed in cold water — no bleach. Dry in a cool dryer, due to the lycra in the fabric.

Needles and Thread

A universal 80/12 or 90/14 needle is a good choice for denim/lycra blends. Use cotton, cotton/polyester, or polyester thread for construction.

There are specific denim topstitching threads marketed for use in making the traditional contrast outer stitching. Use one of these for the needle thread, with a thread to match the fabric in the bobbin. When using a topstitching thread, use the larger (90/14) needle, or use a "denim" needle (which is usually size 16 or 18).

Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems

A slightly elongated stitch (3.5 length) is a good choice for denim/lycra. Hems are best done by machine topstitching.

A fell seam is the traditional construction seam finish for denim, but it can be tricky to perform neatly. Instead, stitch the seam with a 4-thread serged seam and press to one side. Topstitch from the outside, catching the seam allowance in the topstitching.

If you do not have a serger, stitch a conventional seam, trim one side of the seam allowance to ¼ inch, and press the seam to cover the narrower trimmed seam allowance. Topstitch from the outside, catching the seam allowance in the topstitching.

Tip on bulk: Seam allowances in denim can be bulky and tricky to stitch over. Use a hump jumper or fold a small piece of denim to level the presser foot when crossing thick seam intersections.

Interfacing

A weft-insertion interfacing (or a non-stretch woven interfacing) is the preferred fusible for use with denim. If making pants or jeans, perforated waistband elastic works well in denim. For additional stability around pocket openings, fuse a strip of interfacing where the stress of the pocket will take place — you'll be glad of the extra security.

Pattern Suggestions

Simpler styles: Simple dresses, jackets, and tops. Let simplicity be your rule here; the fabric is the star of this show! Eliminate from consideration anything with multiple pattern pieces, darts, or small pieces such as collars and welt pockets.

Classic denim projects: Jackets, coats, pants, jeans, skirts, shirt-jackets, overalls, children's wear — even tuxedos! Use denim for the body of the jacket and satin for the lapels. Run a strip of satin down the side of matching pants.

Creative Possibilities

Denim and embroidery pair well together, particularly when using bright colors. Fabric painting, stencilling, and bleach/resist methods all work beautifully with denim. The fabric's tight weave holds detail well and rewards experimentation.

Shop Denim with Lycra Fabric

Ready to start your project? Browse our selection of stretch denim fabrics — available by the yard with wholesale pricing for home sewists and small designers alike.